I Get my Kicks…

On Route 27 - doesn’t really work!

The day started with a minor success, I finally got a decent cup of filter coffee from my AeroPress. The first time I took it away I forgot the filter papers, last time the milk had curdled (great for cheese or curd tart, not good for coffee); very enjoyable it was too. I’ve also discovered what I’ve forgotten, the plastic bag for the dirty clothes, but I can improvise. 

Things then went downhill and uphill, both figuratively and literally. I’d noticed when I loaded the bike that there seemed to be a bit of brake rub on the front wheel which I put down to having the handlebars turned though 90 degrees. When I set out for the day’s planned ride it was still there; I’ve had a few issues before and it usually wears off, but this time it didn’t. 

My suspicion was that the brake pads were out of centre (being a posh bike it has hydraulic disc brakes). I tried adjusting them but it didn’t help so it was back to the site for a longer ponder and consult of the ‘net. I took the calliper off, checked the disk for warping, put it back on and the problem persisted. I then realised it was actually the mudguard that was the rubbing! A two minute fix, recenter the brakes and I was ready for the off again. Whilst all this was happening I’d also taken a few swigs of Doombar, having accidentally grabbed and opened the wrong can out of the fridge. 

The ride is along the old LSWR Barnstaple - Ilfracombe Railway. It’s a hard surfaced path so easy enough riding but is quite narrow which could result in cyclist - walker conflicts, fortunately all was fine in my encounters. I’d already had a chat with another rider on the earlier aborted ride, he was in full touring mode but welcomed a stop and a few minutes break (I’d guess he was into his 70’s and had a stroke three years ago, I’ll be happy if I’m as fit at his age!)

The railway was opened in 1874 and upgraded to double track in 1889. It survived less than 100 years, closing in 1970 having survived Dr Beeching but falling to Barbara Castle. Attempts at preservation at that time fell into the same issue as we had a few years later with the Market Harborough line, BR wanted the full commercial value for the line which was too much. Invariably they ended up with next to nothing as the lines were handed to councils.

Now anybody who has been to Ilfracombe will know that it lies in a deep narrow cleft in the coast. The caravan site lies at about 600’ above sea level and the gradient out of Ilfracombe is 1 in 36, one of the steepest double track sections in the country and reckoned to be the steepest out of a terminal station - and that station wasn’t at the bottom of the town! That meant it was a great ride down into the town with minimal pedalling but getting back required all my efforts and the maximum output from Mr Bosch’s finest! It was good to see the sea though, what there was as the tide was out so the inner harbour was dry.

 

The main focal point of interest at the end of the pier is Verity, a Damian Hirst statue:

Apparently it’s “a modern allegory of truth and justice" and has been loaned to the town for 20 years by the artist. The building on top of the hill is the Chapel of St Nicholas, built in 1321, which from the Middle Ages maintained a light to guide ships. It ceased to be a chapel following the dissolution of the monasteries but continued as a light house, as it does to the present day (it’s thought to be the oldest working lighthouse in the country). 

Overall according to the OS track I rode 10.29 miles with 2,068 feet of ascent, plus there’s about 4 miles to add for the initial bimble. Not a huge distance by any means but satisfying. I was interested to see, in the short time I was in the town, that motorists seemed to be being more careful around cyclists. It’s not easy with narrow streets but a couple of times I had drivers who were clearly impatient but did wait for a safe place to pass, so it looks like the new Highway Code is working!